• Orientation: low and spacious (ground-dweller). A secure, front-opening box or tub with strong cross-ventilation.

• Space: give floor area ≥ 2–3× the spider’s diagonal legspan. Many keepers use 5–10 gal for large Hogna.

• Burrowing: provide depth so they can dig and feel secure; see Substrate.

• Security: tight-fitting lid/doors; tiny gaps = escape.

• No cohabitation (opportunistic cannibals).

• Temperature: room temps work — aim ~68–76 °F (20–24 °C); the manual notes ~24 °C is ideal.

• Night: a mild drop is fine; avoid heat mats/hotspots that can over-dry or overheat.

• Humidity: keep a moderate ambient with one slightly moist area and strong cross-ventilation; avoid stuffy, wet air.

• Water: always provide a shallow dish; add occasional light mist for droplets (do not soak the enclosure).

• Depth: 4–6"+ for large Hogna so they can dig (their natural burrows may extend several inches).

• Mix: compactable 3:1 soil: sand (or soil/coco with some sand); add leaf litter; keep one corner slightly moist.

• Drainage: never soggy; maintain airflow to prevent mold.

• Provide a snug hide (cork bark slab/tube) and natural clutter (leaf litter, twigs).

• Keep open “runways” so the spider can sprint/ambush.

• Plants (live or artificial) are optional; secure anything heavy.

• Live prey only (they’re active hunters). Offer size-appropriate crickets, roaches, flies, moths, etc.

• Schedule: adults 1–2×/week; juveniles every 3–5 days. Adjust by abdomen fullness and growth.

• Remove uneaten feeders after a few hours; do not power-feed.

• Best practice: observe, don’t handle. They’re fast and can jump/dash.

• If you must move the spider, coax into a catch cup — don’t grab.

• Bites are usually mild-to-moderate for healthy adults, but reactions vary; avoid provoking.

DAILY: remove leftovers; check water; verify temps/airflow.

WEEKLY: wipe panels; tidy leaves; lightly re-moisten a corner if bone-dry.

AS NEEDED: refresh sections of substrate; deep clean if moldy/soiled.

• Dehydration: shrunken abdomen, lethargy → ensure dish is full and micro-environment isn’t overly dry/stuffy.

• Stuck molt: often related to poor hydration/airflow — correct environment and allow recovery; don’t force peeling.

• Mites/mold: improve ventilation; spot-clean; replace affected substrate.

• Persistent refusal to eat outside premolt, repeated escape attempts, or daytime surface-sitting can indicate husbandry issues.

• Collection/possession can be regulated locally; check state/city rules before collecting natives.

• Never release captives outdoors.

• Medical: wolf spiders are considered of low medical concern, but bites can cause pain, swelling, itching; seek care if severe reaction.

□ Secure, front-opening terrestrial enclosure with cross-ventilation (escape-proof)

□ Deep substrate (≥4–6"): compactable soil/sand/coco + leaf litter

□ Cork bark hide(s), natural clutter, optional plants

□ Shallow water dish; fine-mist sprayer (for an occasional light mist)

□ Live feeders (appropriate size) + feeding tongs/catch cup

□ Basic cleaning kit (paper towels, reptile-safe disinfectant)

□ Thermometer/hygrometer (to confirm room-temp range and avoid stale air)