• Orientation — Arboreal, vertical build. Aim ~12×12×18" or larger for a single adult; bigger = easier gradients and molting space.

• Climbing surfaces — Provide a full cork back or tall cork slabs/branches; they must have rough, vertical texture to cling to (especially for molts).

• Substrate — Fill the bottom ~1/3 with a lightly moist mix (e.g., bioactive/soil/coco). Keep lower layers damp, surface mostly dry.

• Ventilation — Strong cross-ventilation to avoid stale, wet air; keep humidity via moist substrate + water dish (not a sealed swamp).

• Security — Tight-fitting doors/lid; they’re flat and can squeeze through gaps.

• Cohab — Possible for some Damon spp. only in roomy, cluttered enclosures with many hides and regular feeding; otherwise keep singly.

• Temperature — Keep ~70–78 °F (21–26 °C); mild night drops are fine if days return to range.

• Humidity — Target ~65–80% with fresh airflow. Let lower substrate hold moisture; mist lightly for droplets; never swampy.

• Water — Always provide a shallow dish.

• Day/night — Provide a 12-hour light cycle (no bright, hot lights).

• UVB — Not required. Ambient room light is enough; avoid direct sun heating the enclosure.

• Tall cork bark (half-round preferred), branches, and plants (live or artificial) for cover and anchor points.

• Leave open vertical “lanes” so they can maneuver their antenniform legs.

• Secure heavy décor; they’re delicate and molt hanging upside down.

• Prey — Live inverts sized appropriately (fruit flies/tiny crickets for slings; small/med crickets or roaches as they grow). Remove leftovers within 24 h.

• Schedule — Slings: twice weekly. Juveniles: every 7–10 days (2–3 small/med items). Adults: about every 3 weeks (2–3 large crickets or one Dubia).

• Post-molt — Wait: slings 24–48 h; juveniles 3–7 d; adults 5–10 d, until the exoskeleton hardens.

• Body-condition rule — If abdomen is thinner than carapace width: feed a bit more; if much wider: feed less to avoid molting issues.

• Mix — Bioactive/soil/coco (airy but holds moisture); add leaf litter & bits of sphagnum in corners.

• Depth — Bottom ~1/3 full so humidity rises from below; surface not waterlogged.

• Best practice — Observe, don’t handle. They’re very delicate and can drop/fall.

• If moving is necessary — Use a catch-cup; coax gently from behind cork.

• Behavior — Nocturnal, shy; non-venomous and harmless but easily stressed.

DAILY: Check water dish, remove feeders/leftovers; verify ventilation.

WEEKLY: Wipe panels; tidy plants/cork; lightly re-moisten a corner if dry.

AS NEEDED: Refresh substrate sections; keep airflow strong to prevent mold.

• Dehydration — Shriveled abdomen, lethargy: ensure dish is full, humidity stable, and airflow fresh (not sealed).

• Bad molt — Often linked to insufficient vertical grip or poor hydration/airflow; correct setup and avoid disturbance around molts.

• Mites/mold — Improve ventilation; spot-clean; replace affected substrate.

• Refusal to eat outside premolt or repeated daytime surface-sitting can signal husbandry issues.

• Laws — Collection/possession of natives varies by state/country; verify before collecting or selling. Never release captives outdoors.

• Safety — Non-venomous; bites aren’t a concern, but they’re fragile. Wash hands after enclosure work.

□ Vertical enclosure (~12×12×18" or larger) with strong cross-ventilation

□ Full cork back or tall cork slabs/branches (rough texture for molting/climbing)

□ Substrate to fill bottom ~1/3 (bioactive/soil/coco + leaf litter; light sphagnum)

□ Shallow water dish; fine-mist sprayer (for light wall droplets)

□ Live feeders by size (fruit flies → small/med crickets/roaches); feeding tongs; catch-cup

□ Basic cleaning kit (paper towels, reptile-safe disinfectant)