Leopard Gecko

Eublepharis macularius

Updated: September 2025

Quick Facts

Common name: Leopard Gecko

Scientific: Eublepharis macularius

Type: Terrestrial, crepuscular/nocturnal

Adult size: ~8–10" (20–25 cm), rare 11"+

Lifespan: ~15–20+ years

Temperament: Generally calm; never grab the tail (autotomy risk)

Adult enclosure: Minimum 36×18×18" (4.5 sq ft floor); larger is better

Substrate: Semi-arid loose mix packed 4"+ deep

Temperature: Basking surface 94–97°F; warm hide 90–92°F; cool end 70–77°F

Humidity: Ambient ~30–40%; humid hide ~70–80%

Water: Shallow dish available at all times

Feeding: Insectivorous; juveniles daily; young adults every 2–3 days; adults every 3–5 days

  • • Adult minimum: 36" L × 18" W × 18" H (≈4.5 sq ft floor). Bigger = better.

    • Front-opening enclosure with strong ventilation; lock/latch securely (escape-proof).

    • Provide at least 2–3 tight hides: warm hide near heat source, cool hide, and a humid hide.

    • No cohabitation for beginners; males should never be housed together.

  • • Day/night: ~12–14 h light, 10–12 h dark (seasonal variation ok).

    • UVB: Recommended. Target UVI ~0.5–1.5 at bask for normal-pigmented morphs; ~0.5–0.7 for albino/low-pigment morphs.

    • Mount a low-output T5 UVB (ShadeDweller class) at the correct distance; verify with a Solarmeter 6.5 if possible.

    • Avoid colored “night” bulbs (red/blue). For night warmth, use a thermostat-controlled CHE or DHP if needed.

  • • Basking surface: 94–97°F (34–36°C)

    • Warm hide: 90–92°F (32–33°C)

    • Cool end: 70–77°F (21–25°C)

    • Night: safe drop; can tolerate down to ~60°F (16°C) if days are correct

    • Ambient humidity: ~30–40% (dry, with good ventilation)

    • Humid hide: 70–80% (middle to cool side) to prevent stuck sheds

    • Heating: overhead halogen basking is preferred; thermostat any non-visible heat source.

  • • Best (packed 4"+): DIY semi-arid mix — 60% organic topsoil + 30% washed play sand + 10% excavator/bentonite clay; moisten to pack, let fully dry before use.

    • Bioactive variants are fine once husbandry is dialed in; beginners can start simple and upgrade.

    • Okay (quarantine/medical): paper towels, tile, quality terrarium mat.

    • Avoid: reptile carpet, linoleum/shelf liner, mulch/wood chips as sole substrate, coconut fiber used alone, walnut shell, calcium/vitamin sands.

  • • Provide snug hides (warm/cool/humid), stacked rocks/ledges (secure), cork, branches, leaf litter.

    • Use a flat stone under the heat source to store daytime warmth.

    • Keep clutter for cover + open lanes for movement; ensure fixtures are guarded/secure.

  • What to feed

    • Rotate 3+ feeder types: crickets, dubia/discoid roaches, black soldier fly larvae, silkworms, hornworms, mealworms/superworms (not as sole staple). No wild-caught bugs.

    How much/how often

    • Rule of thumb: ~2 appropriately-sized insects per inch of gecko, or what they’ll eat in ~15 minutes.

    • Juveniles: daily

    • Young adults: every 2–3 days

    • Adults: every 3–5 days (adjust to tail/body condition)

    Supplements (dust feeders)

    • With UVB: calcium (no D3) most feedings + multivitamin w/ preformed vit A ~weekly (juv) / q2 weeks (adults).

    • Without UVB: use a calcium+D3 all-in-one on the dusting schedule above (or follow product’s LoD schedule).

    • Gut-load feeders 24h+ with quality insect diets; provide clean drinking water at all times.

  • DAILY: Spot-clean waste/shed; refresh water; quick temp/humidity checks (probe + IR gun).

    WEEKLY: Wipe high-traffic surfaces; scrub/refresh humid-hide media.

    MONTHLY/QUARTERLY: Replace sections or all substrate; disinfect décor/enclosure with reptile-safe products; test thermostats/probes.

  • • Let new arrivals settle ~2 weeks before first handling, and only after eating reliably.

    • Approach from the side; support the whole body; never grab the tail (autotomy risk).

    • Short, calm sessions 1–2×/week; watch for stress (chirps/squeaks, tail twitching, bolting).

  • Watch for

    • MBD (soft jaw/limbs, tremors, lethargy) — often Ca/D3/UVB + heat management issues

    • Respiratory signs (wheeze, bubbles, open-mouth breathing) — check temps/ventilation

    • Stuck shed (esp. toes/tail tip) — ensure functional humid hide

    • Anorexia/weight loss, bloating/impaction signs, mites, injuries/burns

    Actions

    • Verify basking/warm hide temps and humidity; optimize ventilation.

    • Seek an ARAV-listed reptile vet for persistent or systemic signs.

  • • Public health: Reptiles can carry Salmonella; wash hands after contact; keep out of kitchens; supervise children/high-risk people.

    • Transport: Use secure, ventilated containers; stabilize décor to prevent crush injuries.

    • Sourcing: Prefer captive-bred; never release captives outdoors.

  • Enclosure & hardware

    □ 36×18×18" (or larger) front-opening enclosure with good ventilation

    □ Overhead halogen basking (on dimmer/thermostat as appropriate)

    □ Low-output T5 UVB (UVI ~0.5–1.5 normal morphs; ~0.5–0.7 albino); timer

    □ Digital probe thermometers/hygrometers (×2) + IR temp gun

    □ Optional: CHE/DHP (night) on a thermostat if room runs cold

    Habitat

    □ Substrate: semi-arid mix (topsoil/sand/clay), packed 4"+ and fully dried before use

    □ Hides: warm, cool, and humid (with moistened, non-ingestible medium)

    □ Secure rock/branch décor; flat stone under heat; water dish

    Feeding & care

    □ Variety of live feeders + gut-loading diet

    □ Calcium & multivitamin powders (per UVB use)

    □ Reptile-safe disinfectant; paper towels; spare décor/hide