• Orientation: vertical, secure, and well-ventilated (fine mesh/cross-vent).

• Size: adults do well in small arboreal enclosures; many keepers use ~8–12" tall. TTC keeps adults in “Medium/Large Treehouse” or even a 12" cube; smaller can work if enriched.

• Furnishing: bottom 1/3 lightly moist substrate; add cork bark/branches, plants, and a magnetic/side hide so they can anchor a hammock near the top.

• Water: small dish on the floor (add a pebble if you’re worried about drowning) and occasional light misting for droplets on walls/decor.

• NEVER cohabit—jumpers will prey on each other.

• Temperature: aim for ~68–76 °F (20–24 °C); typical room temps work.

• Humidity: ~65–75% baseline; use a water dish + slightly moist moss/substrate and, most importantly, excellent cross-ventilation so air never gets stale.

• Day/night: ambient daylight is fine; avoid direct sun heating the enclosure.

• Provide vertical cork bark or branches for perching and web anchor points.

• Use plants (live or artificial) and a magnet/side hide near the upper half.

• Leave open flight lanes so they can jump; don’t over-clutter.

• Bottom ~1/3 of the enclosure with a lightly moist, airy bioactive/soil mix (e.g., Terra Aranea/topsoil) — never soggy.

• Add sphagnum & leaf litter patches; keep the surface mostly dry with humidity rising from below.

DAILY: Check web/hammock, remove leftover feeders, refresh water; ensure good airflow.

WEEKLY: Wipe viewing panels, tidy plants/anchors, lightly moisten a corner of substrate or moss if the room is very dry.

AS NEEDED: Replace substrate sections if moldy; keep ventilation strong to prevent stagnant, wet conditions.

• Spiderlings: feed 2–3× per week (flightless fruit flies, tiny roach/cricket nymphs; pre-kill if >⅔ their size). Remove leftovers after 24h.

• Juveniles: every 3–4 days; offer 2–3 small/medium feeders or a small Dubia.

• Adults: 1–2× per week, e.g., 2–3 medium crickets or one Dubia. Adjust by abdomen size: slightly plump = good; overly swollen = slow down.

• After molts: wait until they’re back out exploring before offering food.

• Curious but fast—work over a soft surface and keep the enclosure nearby.

• Coax with a soft brush; don’t grab; expect sudden jumps.

• Short sessions; avoid drafts/blowing (they’ll leap).

• Dehydration: shriveled abdomen, lethargy → ensure droplets/water dish and correct humidity with airflow.

• Stuck molt: often hydration/airflow related; don’t disturb premolt spiders; correct environment and try again after next molt.

• Mites/mold: improve ventilation, spot-clean, and refresh affected substrate/decor.

• Cannibalism risk: never cohabit; separate spiderlings.

• Sourcing: Prefer captive-bred when available; never release captives outdoors.

• Local rules vary on collecting natives—check your state/city.

• Bites are rare/mild but avoid handling if you’re allergic; wash hands after working in the enclosure.

• Vertical jumper enclosure (adult): ~8–12" tall with cross-ventilation

• Substrate: bioactive/soil mix for lower third + sphagnum/leaf litter

• Decor: vertical cork/branches, plants, magnetic/side hide

• Water: small dish; fine-mist sprayer for droplets

• Feeding: flightless fruit fly culture; pinhead crickets/tiny roach nymphs; feeding tongs

• Maintenance: paper towels, soft brush, cotton swabs, reptile-safe disinfectant