Size — Adults over ~3 ft do best in 48×24×24" (4×2×2) or larger. As a rule, house them in an enclosure at least as long as the snake so it can fully stretch. Provide some vertical space for climbing.

Layout — Secure ventilation and a tight front-opening door/lid. Add multiple hides (warm end + cool end) and sturdy cover/branches so the snake feels secure.

Substrate — Cypress mulch, coco chips/husk, or similar hold humidity well. Do not use cedar, aspen or pine.

Cleaning — Spot clean as needed; periodic full cleans with reptile-safe disinfectant.

Temperatures:

• Basking surface: 95–104 °F

• Warm hide (ambient): 86–90 °F

• Cool hide (ambient): 72–80 °F

• Night: 70–78 °F

• Keep general air temps under 95 °F. Use thermostats and measure with digital probes + an IR temp gun for the basking surface.

Humidity:

•~50–60% with temporary boosts to ~80% for shedding

Day/night cycle ~12 hrs. Low-level UVB is recommended (e.g., T5 HO 5%/Arcadia 6%) with shaded retreats; follow lamp distance guidance and replace bulbs per instructions.

Prey — Thawed/warmed rodents (about the snake’s widest-girth size).

Frequency — Hatchlings every 5-7 days. Juveniles roughly weekly; adults about every 10–14 days. Adjust to body condition, not just the calendar. Minimize handling around meals; avoid handling for ~48 hrs after feeding to prevent regurgitation.

Provide a heavy bowl large enough for full submersion at the cool end; change daily and whenever soiled.

Generally shy; move slowly and support the body with two hands. Provide multiple hides so the snake can choose both temperature and security. Avoid handling during shed and for ~48 hrs post-meal.

Respiratory signs — Wheezing/clicks, open-mouth breathing, bubbles, lethargy, appetite loss.

Shed issues — Retained eye caps or patchy sheds (check humidity & hydration).

Mites — Black specks that move; prolonged soaking.

Burns — Guard all heat sources and run thermostats.

Seek an exotics vet promptly for any of the above.

• Hygiene — All reptiles can carry Salmonella. Wash hands after handling the snake, enclosure items, or feeders. Keep reptiles out of kitchens/food-prep areas; supervise children and high-risk people.

• Heating safety — Put every heat source on a thermostat and use guards around bulbs/emitters to prevent burns. Use digital thermometers to verify the warm and cool ends.

• Housing — Keep singly (no cohabitation). Provide secure lids/locks to prevent escapes.

• Substrate cautions — Do NOT use cedar or pine shavings (aromatic oils can harm reptiles).

• UV & lights — Provide a 12-hr day/night cycle. If you use UVB, keep intensity low and always offer shaded retreats; follow lamp distance guidelines.

• Local laws — Ownership/sales rules vary by city/county/state.

Enclosure

• Adult minimum 48×24×24" (4×2×2 ft) with good ventilation and secure doors/lid.

Temperature & Humidity Control

• Primary heat: ceramic heat emitter or radiant heat panel (with bulb/element guard).

• Thermostats: one per heat source (on/off or proportional), probe secured.

• 2 digital thermometers (warm end + cool end) and an IR temp gun for surface checks.

• Digital hygrometer; humid hide or moss box if needed.

Lighting

• 12-hr light cycle. Optional low-output UVB strip (e.g., 5–6% T5) mounted to achieve a low UVI with shaded retreats available; timer.

Furnishings

• 2+ snug hides (warm end and cool end).

• Sturdy branches/plants and cover (“clutter”) for security and exercise.

• Heavy water bowl large enough for full submersion.

Substrate

• Cypress mulch or coco chips/husk, (avoid cedar/pine).

Feeding & Care

• Feeding tongs; frozen/thawed rodents; paper towels for spot cleaning.

• Reptile-safe disinfectant; spare bulbs/fuses; enclosure locks/clips.